1998 Clos du Marquis, Saint-Julien, Bordeaux - 750ml

90 Points – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Clos du Marquis comes from the Delon family of Château Léoville Las Cases and has long offered its own expression of Saint-Julien, with a distinctly Cabernet-driven Médoc profile. The 1998 is now fully mature, trading youthful concentration for the cedar, earth and savory complexity that make well-preserved older Bordeaux particularly rewarding at the table.

Blend: 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot.

Tasting Notes: Mature blackcurrant and dark cherry are joined by cedar, tobacco leaf and dried herbs, with mushroom, earth and black pepper emerging as the wine opens. The palate is medium-bodied and increasingly savory, with softened fruit, resolved tannins and a gently persistent finish that emphasizes mature Médoc character over power.

Structure: Medium-bodied, with the firm framework of Cabernet Sauvignon now softened considerably by age. The tannins are largely resolved, leaving a supple, composed texture supported by enough acidity and savory definition to retain shape.

Drink Window: Drink now. At nearly three decades from harvest, the 1998 is fully mature and should be purchased for its developed character rather than further cellaring potential. Bottle condition, fill level and provenance are increasingly important at this stage.

Decanting: Stand the bottle upright for several hours before opening. Taste first and decant gently only to separate the wine from sediment; prolonged aeration is unnecessary and could diminish the more delicate mature aromatics.

For drinkers who appreciate fully developed Left Bank Bordeaux, the 1998 Clos du Marquis offers a compelling opportunity to experience mature Saint-Julien without the scale or formality of a grand vin still demanding cellar time. It is ready for the table now, particularly alongside roast lamb, beef, duck or mushroom-based dishes where its savory, evolved character can take center stage.