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97 Points – Wine Advocate
Roberto Voerzio is one of Barolo’s most acclaimed producers, based in La Morra and known for exceptionally low yields, meticulous vineyard work and intensely expressive Nebbiolo. Brunate is one of the denomination’s great historic crus, and the 2004 captures its combination of power, balsamic complexity and depth with the structure of a classic, long-lived Barolo.
Blend: 100% Nebbiolo.
Tasting Notes: Dark cherry, plum and blackberry are layered with mint, tobacco, licorice, anise and savory balsamic notes. With maturity, the wine has developed additional nuances of dried flowers, orange peel, herbs and earthy spice, while retaining a dense, authoritative core and polished tannic grip.
Structure: Full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, with firm but polished tannins, excellent balance and substantial persistence.
Drink Window: Drink now through approximately 2035. At more than two decades from vintage, well-stored bottles should be entering an excellent phase of maturity while still retaining the structure for further evolution.
Decanting: Stand the bottle upright in advance to allow sediment to settle, then decant carefully for approximately 45–60 minutes. Mature Barolo can evolve quickly once exposed to air, so the objective is to separate sediment and gradually release the wine’s aromatic complexity rather than subject it to prolonged aeration.
The 2004 Brunate is a compelling bottle for collectors who value mature Barolo with both power and nuance. Its combination of dark fruit, tobacco, licorice, balsamic complexity and firm Nebbiolo structure makes it particularly well suited to braised beef, game, truffle dishes or aged cheeses, while its pedigree gives it the stature for an important dinner or a serious Piedmont cellar.
