2014 Philipponnat Clos de Goisses, Champagne, France, 750ml

99 Points – Wine Enthusiast

Clos des Goisses is Philipponnat’s historic single-vineyard Champagne, produced from a steep, fully south-facing walled vineyard overlooking the Marne at Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The cooler, classical 2014 vintage brings particular tension to a site naturally associated with power and ripeness, resulting in a Clos des Goisses that combines substantial vinous depth with chalky precision and freshness.

Blend: 71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay.

Tasting Notes: Ripe pear, apricot and red apple are layered with white flowers, toasted almond and freshly baked pastry, with honeyed and saline nuances developing in the glass. The palate is concentrated yet finely drawn, with persistent mousse, vivid acidity and pronounced chalky minerality carrying through a long, savory finish.

Structure: Powerful and vinous for Champagne, yet notably taut in 2014. The absence of malolactic fermentation preserves acidity beneath the wine’s depth, while partial barrel vinification contributes texture and complexity without diminishing its mineral definition.

Drink Window: Now–2040. Wine Spectator places the 2014 through 2040, and the wine has the acidity, concentration and extended lees aging to develop considerably further. It is already compelling, but additional cellaring should bring greater toasted, nutty and savory complexity.

Decanting: Do not routinely decant. Serve around 50–54°F in a generous tulip-shaped Champagne or white-wine glass and allow it to open gradually; this is a Champagne that benefits from both air and a slightly warmer serving temperature rather than being served ice-cold.

Clos des Goisses occupies a distinctive place in Champagne: a single historic clos capable of producing a wine with the depth and structure to function as much like a serious table wine as an aperitif. The 2014 is particularly suited to a significant dinner or long-term cellar, with enough substance for caviar, lobster, turbot, truffles, roast poultry or aged Comté.