2017 Roccolo Grassi, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy - 750ml

95 Points – Eric Guido, Vinous.

Roccolo Grassi brings an unusually refined approach to Amarone, emphasizing balance and freshness alongside the concentration achieved through appassimento. From the estate’s vineyard in the hills of Mezzane di Sotto, the 2017 shows the warmth of the vintage while retaining the mineral energy and aromatic detail that distinguish the producer’s style.

Blend: Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella and Croatina.

Tasting Notes: Dried cherry and dark red fruit lead into blood orange, violet and lavender, with layers of sweet spice, tobacco and subtle balsamic character emerging with air. The palate is rich and silky but notably fresh, with concentrated red fruit and exotic spice framed by mineral-tinged acidity and a long, floral and savory finish.

Structure: Full-bodied and concentrated, with substantial yet polished tannins and enough acidity to keep the wine’s richness in balance. The 2017 carries Amarone’s characteristic weight without sacrificing definition, finishing with impressive persistence rather than simple sweetness.

Drink Window: Now–2035. At nearly a decade from vintage, the wine is beginning to enter an attractive drinking phase while retaining ample fruit, tannin and concentration for further development.

Decanting: Decant for approximately 60 minutes if drinking now, particularly from a recently opened bottle. Serve around 60–64°F in a generous glass, allowing the wine’s aromatic complexity to emerge without emphasizing its alcohol.

Roccolo Grassi is particularly compelling for drinkers who want the depth of Amarone without sacrificing freshness and precision. The 2017 has the stature for a substantial dinner or special occasion, pairing naturally with braised beef, game, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano or other intensely savory dishes.