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97 Points – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
Antinori’s Cervaro della Sala has been one of Italy’s reference-point age-worthy white wines since its inaugural 1985 vintage, combining Chardonnay with the native Grechetto at the Castello della Sala estate near Orvieto. The 2023 is especially poised, bringing together Chardonnay’s breadth and polish with freshness, savory mineral character and the lift of Grechetto.
Blend: 85% Chardonnay, 15% Grechetto.
Tasting Notes: Acacia blossom, bergamot and citron open into ginger, subtle flint and gently toasted notes. The palate is refined and energetic, with ripe citrus and restrained tropical fruit complemented by savory freshness, roasted hazelnut and delicate spice on the persistent finish.
Structure: Medium to full-bodied, layered and finely textured, with bright acidity and a distinctly savory, mineral line balancing the wine’s richness. Partial malolactic fermentation and barrique maturation of the Chardonnay contribute breadth and complexity without sacrificing freshness.
Drink Window: Now–2034. Already expressive, but Cervaro della Sala is built with development in mind; the 2023 has the freshness and concentration to gain further nutty, savory and tertiary complexity with bottle age.
Decanting: Enjoy moderately chilled rather than overly cold. When drinking young, 20–30 minutes in a decanter or generous white-wine glasses will help reveal its texture, mineral character and more nuanced savory notes.
Cervaro della Sala is an excellent choice for the Chardonnay drinker looking beyond Burgundy and California toward one of Italy’s most established cellar-worthy whites. The 2023 has the polish for a special dinner and the structure for the cellar, pairing particularly well with lobster, richer seafood, roast poultry, risotto and truffle-accented dishes.
