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97 Points – James Suckling.
The 2019 Testamatta marks the 20th anniversary of Bibi Graetz’s flagship Sangiovese, first produced in 2000. Drawn from old vines across several high-quality Tuscan sites, including Lamole and Montefili in Chianti Classico, the wine is conceived as a pure expression of Sangiovese, emphasizing fragrance, mineral definition and finesse rather than relying on international varieties for structure.
Blend: 100% Sangiovese.
Tasting Notes: Black cherry, ripe plum and raspberry are layered with violet, orange peel, tobacco and earthy spice. The palate is concentrated yet elegant, with vivid red and dark fruit, savory undertones and fine mineral detail carrying through a persistent, increasingly complex finish.
Structure: Full-bodied but finely proportioned, with polished, velvety tannins and fresh acidity giving definition to the wine’s generous fruit. At seven years from vintage, the 2019 is beginning to relax while retaining considerable structure and energy.
Drink Window: Now–2040. The 2019 is entering an attractive phase for drinking, particularly with aeration, but its balance, tannic structure and concentration make continued cellaring entirely appropriate.
Decanting: If opening now, decant for approximately 45–60 minutes to allow the fruit, tannins and savory complexity to unfold. Serve slightly below room temperature in a generous Burgundy or Bordeaux-style glass.
Testamatta offers a distinctive perspective on serious Tuscan Sangiovese: old-vine fruit and considerable concentration expressed with more finesse than sheer weight. The 2019 anniversary vintage has the pedigree and longevity for the cellar while already providing an impressive centerpiece for dinner alongside bistecca alla Fiorentina, roast lamb, wild boar or aged Tuscan cheeses.
